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Taking the alternator apart should be a piece of cake
once the three screws have been removed and the two halves marked
for reassembly later.
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The stator, completely rusted on the inside, with negative brush
(1) and three support screws (2) all to be removed.
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All elements are to be unmounted, if the isolating element (5)
moves easily then the isolating washer (4) should be recovered.
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Even the remains of a spider egg, visible at the top.
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Stator has been removed, necessary to get to the screws that hold
the brushes. The wire on the stator is frayed. Also, Testing with
an ohmmeter shows that there is a short between the body and the
windings = new stator. This explains why I've been having such a
hard time keeping a battery charge ...
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(left) Screw position of brushes, and the visible corrosion ...
(right) Positioning of the diode trap...
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(left) Screw and washers (important as the last washer isolates)
...
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(left) The rear carter joint is junk ... and where it goes (right)
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| The rear carter exploded view (left)
After testing both the the isolation and polarity of the diodes,
and the continuity and isolation of the rotor is fine. The brushes
are used (less than 10mm left).
Once I get the stator apart, I'll need a new bearing to replace
the existing one.
So the pieces I need to replace are the stator (5720.19) , joint
(5724.15), two brushes (5728.19), bearings (5725.13, 5724.13).
(right) The cleaned and re-assembled rear carter (The brushes will
go...).
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